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Jack Martin

Colourist operating from California who focuses on silver hair. His clients include Hollywood stars and renowned personalities.

Which budget-friendly product is a must-have?

I swear by a soft fabric towel, or even a gentle tee to towel-dry your locks. Most people don’t realise how much stress a standard towel can do, notably with silver or chemically treated hair. A simple switch can really reduce frizz and breakage. A second budget-friendly essential is a broad-toothed comb, to use while conditioning. It protects the hair while smoothing out tangles and helps preserve the strength of the hair shafts, especially after lightening.

Which investment truly pays off?

A top-tier thermal appliance – made with advanced materials, with precise heat settings. Grey and blonde hair can develop brassy tones or get damaged without the correct device.

What style or process should you always avoid?

Self-applied color lifting. Internet videos often simplify it, but the truth is it’s one of the biggest gambles you can do to your hair. I’ve witnessed clients cause irreversible harm, break it off or end up with striped effects that are incredibly challenging to remedy. I would also avoid keratin or permanent straightening treatments on pre-lightened strands. These formulations are often too aggressive for delicate locks and can cause chronic issues or color changes.

What’s the most common mistake you see in your salon?

People using the wrong products for their hair type or colour. Some overuse colour-correcting purple shampoo until their lightened locks looks flat and dull. A few overdo on strengthening conditioners and end up with unmanageable, weak locks. A further common mistake is thermal styling minus a barrier. When applying styling appliances without a defensive spray or cream, – notably with color-treated strands – you’re going to see brassiness, lack of moisture and splitting.

What would you suggest for thinning hair?

Thinning requires a comprehensive strategy. Externally, minoxidil remains a top choice. I also recommend scalp serums with caffeine or peptides to boost blood flow and support follicle health. Applying a cleansing scalp wash often helps eliminate impurities and allows treatments to work more effectively. Oral aids like specialized formulas have also shown notable improvements. They support the body from the inside out by addressing hormonal imbalances, stress and dietary insufficiencies.

For people looking for something more advanced, PRP therapy – where a concentration from your blood is administered – can be beneficial. Still, my advice is to getting a professional diagnosis beforehand. Hair loss is often tied to underlying health issues, and it’s important to identify the source rather than chasing surface-level fixes.

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A Hair and Scalp Specialist

Scalp and Hair Scientist and brand president of Philip Kingsley centers and lines targeting thinning.

How frequently do you schedule salon visits?

I schedule cuts every ten to twelve weeks, but will remove split ends personally fortnightly to maintain tip integrity, and have lightening sessions every eight weeks.

Which bargain product do you swear by?

Building fibers are absolutely amazing if you have see-through sections. They attach using static to your strands, and it comes in a variety of shades, making it seamlessly blended. I personally applied it after childbirth when I had a lot of hair fall – and also currently as I’m going through some marked thinning after having a severe illness recently. As hair isn’t an essential tissue, it’s the first part of you to suffer when your nutrition is inadequate, so I would also recommend a balanced, nutritious diet.

Which premium option is truly valuable?

If you have female pattern hair loss (FPHL), I’d say medicated treatments. For excessive daily hair shedding, AKA telogen effluvium (TE), buying an non-prescription item is fine, but for FPHL you really do need prescription-strength formulas to see the most effective improvements. From my perspective, minoxidil combined with additional ingredients – such as hormones, anti-androgens and/or anti-inflammatories – works best.

Which popular remedy is ineffective?

Rosemary oil for hair loss. It shows no real benefit. The whole thing stems from one small study done in 2015 that compared the effects of 2% minoxidil to rosemary oil. A 2% strength minoxidil isn’t enough to do much for hereditary thinning in males, so the study is basically saying they are equally minimal in effect.

Additionally, excessive biotin. Few individuals have biotin insufficiency, so consuming it probably won't help your locks, and it can affect thyroid test results.

What blunder stands out often?

In my view, we should rename "hair washing" to "scalp cleaning" – because the main goal of cleansing is to rid your scalp of old oils, dead skin cells, sweat and environmental pollution. I notice clients skipping washes as they think it’s harmful to their strands, when in fact the contrary is accurate – especially if you have dandruff, which is worsened by the presence of excess oils. If natural oils stay on the head, they decompose and cause irritation.

Regrettably, follicular health and strand desires can differ, so it’s a balancing act. But as long as you are gentle when you shampoo and handle wet hair with care, it is unlikely to cause damage.

Which product, treatment or supplement would you recommend for hair loss?

For FPHL, your core treatment should be minoxidil. Scientific support is substantial and tends to show optimal results when mixed with supporting compounds. If you're interested in complementary therapies, or you prefer not to use it or are unable, you could try microneedling (see a dermatologist), and perhaps injections or laser devices.

With telogen effluvium, investigation is key. Excessive daily shedding occurs in response to an internal factor. Occasionally, the reason is temporary – such as flu, Covid or a period of intense stress – and it will improve spontaneously. Alternatively, endocrine issues or nutrient shortages may be the cause – the most common being ferritin (stored iron), vitamin B12 and vitamin D deficiency – and to {treat the hair loss you need to treat the cause|address shedding, target the underlying issue|combat thinning, focus